Author Topic: Kayak Anchor  (Read 14591 times)

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Offline billydog

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Re: Kayak Anchor
« Reply #15 on: May 13, 2015, 08:55 PM »
 nice right up I like it but in the blue can you pull it free I us a paddle not a peddle yak reefs can be a bummer as we all have left gear.but sounds great for a lake
when im on the water im free lake ocean river its all good

Offline RG

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Re: Kayak Anchor
« Reply #16 on: July 02, 2015, 11:36 PM »
Ive almost turned my yak over trying to free my anchor from a dang rocky bottom... its a 3-5 lb claw like Shoguns.. Its doesnt get to ride along BTB anymore..

Offline RHYAK

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Re: Kayak Anchor
« Reply #17 on: July 03, 2015, 10:08 PM »
Ive almost turned my yak over trying to free my anchor from a dang rocky bottom... its a 3-5 lb claw like Shoguns.. Its doesnt get to ride along BTB anymore..

Yeah not much need for an anchor in the ocean IMO.
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Offline Life_is_Yak

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Re: Kayak Anchor
« Reply #18 on: August 22, 2017, 04:23 PM »
     Personally I use an anchor often and find it extremely effective.  My set up works well even in very strong river currents.  I use a 3lb claw anchor like the one Cor-dawg showed and I have 4-5lbs of lead wrapped around the rope just above the anchor about the length of the anchor shaft itself.  What a chain or in my case lead weight ahead of the anchor does is force the anchor to lay on the bottom in the correct position so that the claws are in fact digging into the ground instead of just flopping around.  Also if you do get a claw anchor, be sure to attach the mainline to the claw end of the anchor, then attach the line via a zip tie to the end you would think the line is supposed to be tied to.  I had my anchor stuck bad one time, and with enough effort I was able to break the zip tie and then the anchor was pulled from the other end and the anchor came right out backwards, I hope that makes sense.  As far as deployment of the anchor on a kayak, a good rule of thumb is to let out at least twice as much line as is the depth of the water.  For example: if you are in 50 fow, let out at least 100 feet of line or more.  This will keep the line at a 45 degree angle or more and will help the anchor dig the claws in deep as well as give you some much needed slack on the change in elevation due to ocean swells.  Most importantly the use of an anchor trolly is highly recommended to ensure you anchor is connected to your yak from the bow or stern when deployed, so that it will pull down from the front or back and not the sides.  And last but not least, attach a float to the end of the line and learn a reliable quick release knot.    I think it's totally awesome that you are getting your Wildys back in action and Im sure I speak for the rest of us that I look forward and hope to hear about some of your diving adventures.  And just like anything, after a little practice, you will be able to easily deploy and retrieve your anchor with your eyes closed, and feel totally safe and secure in the process.  Once again my personal set up is on a Hobie Outback, anchor trollies on both sides, 3lb claw anchor with 4+lbs of lead wrapped just ahead of the line (I used lead because on a yak a chain would annoy me), and I have about 220 feet of thin para cord type line tied to a small float.  As you can see in the picture below the entire unit hardly takes up any space at all when I hit the water, and I actually have a carabineer tied inline so that I can keep the unit clipped to a pad eye in the back of my tank well just incase I get rolled. 

2nd..  I have the exact same setup.  Used it a lot in lynnhaven back in VA and I was amazed at how many yaks you grab hold in strong current.  I'm not sure how fast the current was but it the kind where your paddling hard and getting practically no where.  We had 4 guys hold on consistently and one time 6-7, but it was dragging the anchor some then.  Still supper impressive.

I guess the main reason for my post is I would seriously consider the 1.5lb claw anchors.  I remember when I was setting up my 3lb with the chain and break away and I was testing it in the grass to see how much pressure it took to pull it.. I never though it would hold me in the current at lynnhaven, but it would hold 4 people no problem.  I've thought about down sizing just to save some weight.

Some tips - when I built mine I made a stainless steel cable to run from the bottom to the top.  then I connect the stainless steel cable to chain.. I did this to save some weight and it breaks away a little better.  IMPORTANT don't use large zip ties or more than one.  the small harbor freight ones work great and I haven't had a tie break yet.  The reason you want to use a small zip tie is because if you get hung up you want to be able to break it fairly easy.  I saw a guy get his anchor hung.  He used the large zip ties and we both were pulling as hard as possible and couldn't break it.  Remember your in a yak.  If you use large zip ties their rated for 75lbs.  Breaking strength will take more than 75lbs..  Try than in a sitting position in something that can be pulled under water every time you jerk.  You want to be able to break it with about 1/4 of your effort.  That way your not flipping your yak or loosing your anchor like my friend did.
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Offline Zodiacker

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Re: Kayak Anchor
« Reply #19 on: August 24, 2017, 08:17 PM »
Thanks for posting your experiences!

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